Your Ultimate Guide to Retinol: the Anti-aging Superstar

 Weeks ago, I received two retinol moisturizers from two different companies in return for a review. I had a few questions in mind, and I needed to find out whether retinol works and how it could affect my skin.

Since I know little about anti-aging products, and because I do not rely on companies’ descriptions like the fancy words: magical, miracle, etc. I searched the web trying to find the answers on my own.

In a week, I read about 20 articles and two published studies about retinol. I took notes and spent the rest of the week writing this article. Finally found answers to my questions! And here it is, all you need to know about retinol, so let’s start from the beginning; what is retinol?

What is Retinol?

Retinol, or vitamin A, is an antioxidant and an important cell-communicating ingredient. It promotes the production of new healthy skin cells. As it stimulates the cellular turnover from deep within the layers of your skin, it helps reduce wrinkles, cure acne, tighten pores, stimulate the production of collagen and fades age spots.

There are two kinds of vitamin A in skincare products; over-the-counter retinol, and prescription retinol (retinoid). Retinol also can be broken into other forms called derivatives like retinyl palmitate, but retinol is still more effective than its derivatives.

Prescription retinol creams such as Renova and Retin-A are far more effective than those found in over-the-counter retinol, but it can cause more irritation and drying. You need to start slow and follow the instructions given by your doctor; otherwise, your skin will suffer from irritation. In addition to Renova and Retin-A, there are also:

• Retin-A has a lightweight, creamy texture and often prescribed for acne.
• Retin-A Micro has a gel texture with a matte finish that’s best for oily, acne-prone skin
• Renova has an emollient texture, usually used for wrinkles and sun-damaged skin.
• Tri-Luma contains tretinoin along with prescription-strength hydroquinone and is prescribed for discolorations and melasma.
• Atralin, Avita, Altinac, Refissa, and Tretin-X
• Tretinoin

Prescription Retinol Cream OR Over-the-Counter Retinol Cream

While prescription retinol is stronger and works faster than over-the-counter forms of retinol (cosmetic retinol), cosmetic retinol cream will give the same results in the long run. It depends on how patient you are. Using a strong form of a retinol cream should be for a short period, you can then continue with an anti-aging cream like Stemuderm, which combines anti-aging and moisturizing ingredients in one product.

You can use such product during the day while you should only use prescription retinol at night since the latest increase your skin’s sensitivity to sunlight.

Retinoids (prescription retinol) dries your skin more than retinol does. When I started using retinol, I used it in the morning and apply a moisturizer (with vitamin C) in the middle of the day. Sometimes, I also used shea butter when my skin felt extremely dry. By the end of the first week of application, my skin was much better and dried less frequently.

Retinol Creams and AHA’s

Retinol and AHA’s are not the same. AHA’s are natural exfoliation agents that help remove the upper layers of dead skin, to reveal new healthy glowing skin from underneath. AHA’s include lactic acid and glycolic acid (Read more about Lactic acid here)

On the other hand, some think that retinol is exfoliation agents, which is not true. They could cause your skin to peel, but their real job is to stimulate the production of new younger healthier cells.

If you ever were told NOT to use retinol and AHA at the same time, never listen because there is no research that AHA’s make retinol less active when used in the same beauty routine. [Source] Remember that if your skin gets irritated or suffer from redness when using both of them, it is because either retinol or AHA product is too strong for your skin. You always need to ask your dermatologist, and you need to start slowly to reduce irritation. Some can use a retinol cream 2-3 times a week without problems, and others can use it every day, it depends on your skin, and there is no one rule for all.

I have been using lactic acid for a few months now, and I can assure you that they are great in reducing the appearance of hyperpigmentation. In fact, I have achieved the fastest results when using lactic acid 50% (read more about my story here). Combining AHA’s peel with retinol can give you better results since the latest encourages the formation of new skin cells [Source]. Just keep in mind that it takes time, an average of 3 months (in the previous study) to get the desired results.

Therefore, if you have seen MAGICAL RETINOL products that are labeled MIRACLE or other fancy promises, you should remember that you will need to use them for a few months to fade those dark spots, considering that that product works!

Best Ingredients to Go with a Retinol Cream

The reason why I am talking about ingredients to go with retinol; is that retinol alone cannot solve all your skin problems, the same way eating only meat cannot give your body all the nutrition’s it needs. You need to eat healthy foods, and your skin needs several ingredients to stay healthy. These ingredients are essential whether you use a retinol cream or not. Using them together will give you much better results, so do not rely on one product for your skin care routine; because, in the real world, there is none!

Here are the three main ingredients that will give you the best results along with your retinol cream:

• AHA’s as mentioned before; it is a complementary ingredient for what retinol does. AHA’s exfoliate your skin; removing all the dead skin while retinol works on deep layers of your skin to generate new healthy skin cells. When used together, they can give you better results, but be careful, and don’t overuse them or your skin will suffer from irritation.
• Sunscreen: There is no doubt that sunscreen is essential for protecting your skin from harmful UV light. Applying a sunscreen over a moisturizer that contains vitamins A, E, and C can benefit your skin the most and give extra protection from UV’s. Unlike some may think, retinol does not cause the same sensitivity to daylight as tretinoin; the prescription-only form of retinol. Also, applying an antioxidant-rich moisturizer that includes vitamins A, E, and C under a sunscreen is still active in protecting your skin from UV’s. Remember that you can use a retinol cream (cosmetic retinol) during the daytime but only with sunscreen on top of it.
• Vitamin C ( and vitamin E as well): Since vitamin C fights free radicals, vitamin C helps your retinol cream do its job in promoting the production of new cells and protecting those cells from free radicals. If you are using a retinol product, applying a vitamin C serum underneath it would be beneficial for giving your skin extra protection.

Things You Need to Know When Using a Retinol Cream

• Retinol products may be applied underneath the eye, but not on the eyelids or under brow area.
• All beauty products containing retinol, like all vitamin A derivatives, is NOT recommended for women who are pregnant, trying to be pregnant or breastfeeding.
• When using a retinol cream during the day, you should never skip your sunscreen. I know I have said that before, I am saying it again just in case you missed the previous paragraph!
• If it is your first time, start slow.
• Apply a pea-size amount for the whole face. More is not better!
• If you are using a retinoid, apply a moisturizer first (choose a moisturizer that does not contain anti-aging ingredients). This will help build a barrier between your skin and retinoid and cause less irritation.
• Consistency and patience are so important when using skincare products. You need to use it consistently, and you will have to wait for weeks to see visible results do not listen to those who tell you that it works for the first weeks, because it does not!
• Most dermatologists and articles I have read advice that you should start using retinol when you are 30+. Some mentioned that you could start since you are a teen. A 30 something woman needs retinol, but a teenager?! I believe a teenager will need sunscreen more than anything else, don’t you think so? A moisturizer with vitamin C would be a good idea, too.
• Stay away from retinol creams containing irritating ingredients (like parabens, fragrance, or alcohol).

Final Thoughts

Whether it is acne, wrinkles, dark spots, or large pores, retinol is a great solution for most skin problems. Nevertheless, you should remember that no single ingredient could be your ultimate solution for all your skin needs. You should look for other ingredients to include in your skincare routine along with it. And to make the best use of it, and your money, make sure to buy retinol in opaque pumps (no jars or clear bottles, please!) to prevent them from oxidization due to repeatedly exposed to air and light.

I hope I answered all of your questions regarding retinol. If not, please leave your comment in the comment section below, and I will make sure to answer your question ASAP.

If you have enjoyed this blog and found any of the information helpful, please share this post! Add the hashtag #RetinolCreamGuide so that I can thank you 🙂

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